Vogue 9260

A quick tip:  If a color doesn't particularly agree with you, just put on more lipstick.  A personal tenet, which has gotten me through some yellow, orange, and lime green days.

I wasn't sure if this particular shade of mustardy orange would look good with my new blond 'do, but I actually really like it!  I've made up Vogue 9260, a pattern for either jumpsuit or romper, the only variations being the length of the trousers.  The fabric is a lightweight rayon crepon from Denverfabrics, and even though it wrinkles immediately, I would happily sew with it again in a heartbeat.  I love the lightness, the breeziness of the stuff.  We get sticky, humid 100 degree days here in New Jersey, and sometimes you need something with 8 inches of ease and lots of holes for air circulation.

Here's a slightly awkward side view.  It's the only one I have because my photographer is not exactly a professional.  Or eager.  Or willing.

 Speaking of holes, I have fallen in love with grommets.  They're so easy to put in, and they look so professional--people say "really? You made that?"  and if I can detect just a hint of suspicion that I'm lying, my day is made.

In hindsight, when I added an inch in length, I should have added it to the shorts as opposed to the bodice.  Sometimes the elastic dips under my belt, which I wear at my natural waist.  I also should have used a less flopsy interfacing on the front neckline.  I used a lightweight cotton poplin as a sew-in interfacing because I didn't want it to be too stiff.  Looking at the photos, however, I think I could forgive a little stiffness.  *wink*  (eww gross)

I'm a pretty big fan of Vogue 9260, and I can tell because in the week since I completed it, I've already worn it 3 times!

BurdaStyle 08/2016, 110 and 102 - Pleated Trousers and Ruffled Blouse

The Russian Burda website is like the most beautiful open secret for Burdastyle enthusiasts.  Obviously, anyone can visit and see the multitude of pattern reviews done by very skilled "needlewomen," but it's the sort of site you must be introduced to by someone else already in the know.  After you're introduced, it becomes one of the most useful sites for finding reviews and inspiration--not to mention previews of upcoming issues!

All of this is to preface my favorite term for those who sew:  Needlewomen!  Nearly every review on that site begins with (translated automatically by Chrome) "Hello fellow needlewomen" or some variation thereof.  The term has a certain Balkan charm, and I've decided to adopt it.

I mean, really, what kind of options do we needlewomen have when it comes to terms for ourselves?  Sewer is obvious, but contains whiffs of the gutter.  Sewist is a little too hipster-y.  Seamstress, a bit too industrial revolution.  Nah.  Needlewoman is what I call myself, for a needlewoman I am.

Sadly, needleman doesn't have quite the same ring to it.  Tailor is appealingly brisk, but it refers to a specific type of garment making.  I would suggest "man of the cloth," but people might get the wrong impression.

The first month of this new year was full of family business and busy days and nights--no time to sew.  February, despite having to catch up on work from last semester and keep up with the current one, has given me a little more time.  These pants are one of the first projects I completed this year.  I think I like them.  The red/white striped ruffle-front blouse was completed last year, but I like them together as an outfit.

The trousers are Burdastyle 08/2016 110, and the blouse is 08/2016 102.

For the pleated trousers I used a golden beige linen/wool blend fabric.  Lightweight, which drapes well, and very comfortable.  It doesn't crease as badly as pure linen, but it's easier to care for than pure wool--win/win!  I modified the pattern slightly by shortening the wide waistband and adding a tab in the front, with a contrasting button.  I think it's a subtle little detail, but cute.

The ruffled-front shirt went together well, but it's a bit boxy for my taste, so I think I will usually tie it up or wear it tucked in.  The front is dart-fitted, but the back has a pleat and no shaping.  The armholes were a little snug, and not as scooped in as I think they ought to be, but that's easily fixed!  I really like this blouse, with the tiny band instead of a collar, the bias ruffles, and the fun options for customization with buttons and stripes.

The fabric is a lightweight, crisp cotton shirting with no stretch.

The second shirt is similar, with a boxy fit and a band instead of a collar, but it was made years ago from a Simplicity pattern.  I'm not sure which one!  It's the oldest thing I made which I still wear.  The busy print helps obscure the bad topstitching, and the french seams have made the airy cotton lawn stand up to dozens of washings.  Definitely a favorite in the wardrobe!

Thank you for reading!  I encourage any feedback, constructive criticism, whatnot.  Always looking to advance my knowledge and skills.

Little Satin Jacket - Vogue 8799 (Kinda)

A while ago I saw this inspiration jacket from Paule Ka's Pre-Fall 2015 collection, and fell in love.  So I attempted something similar.

Note that I say 'similar.' It's not a very faithful copy, although I kept the major elements the same:  cropped, satin, zip with guard underneath, elasticized cuffs and waist, whatnot. 

Here's my version:

It's cute, right?  I used a heavily modified Vogue 8799. This pattern is now out of print, sadly, but can be found all over Etsy.  The fabric is a cotton/poly satin with a good amount of stretch to it and embroidered flowers.  I get a kick out of the contrast between fancy fabric and casual style.  

I don't really like it with the pale blue dress, I think it blends too much.  It looks much nicer with my darker dresses, or with high waisted jeans.  That's actually my favorite way to wear it, but I wanted to only show it with other garments I've made.

I topstitched the collar, which I think looks pretty cute, and added little non-functional welt pockets.  They were originally functional, but I didn't really take into account how small they would be, so I just stitched them shut. 

Here you can see the sleeve head I made out of some heavier satin twill:

In all, I'm very happy with this jacket!  

Once Again, I'm Wearing a Couch - McCall's 7089

Here's a nice one.  I use the most banal of adjectives for this dress because although I really like it, I'm also a little ambivalent.  On the one hand, this dress is bangin'.  I look good in it, it's a great print, and I didn't have to do much to the pattern itself in order to get a reasonably good fit.  On the other hand, it's made out of some extremely flammable home dec fabric from Jo-Ann's with a soft, brushed surface and no give whatsoever.

Basically, it's fine once it's on but I can't actually zip it all the way without help.  Or lift my arms higher than my head.  

I still wear it, though.  Why?  Because it's a party dress that happens to flatter and I usually don't wear it for more than a few hours.  I do get lots of compliments on it, and even more after people touch it and feel how soft it is.  I have plans to make another one, because I do like this silhouette, but perhaps in a stretch sateen.

The Pattern:

I used McCall's 7089, a Designer Joi number.  The pattern is good, I think.  I did an FBA by lengthening the bodice pattern pieces an inch and a quarter, then making the mini French dart deeper at the bottom.  It worked well, but I also had to shorten the dart by about half an inch to get the bust points in the right place.  It's difficult to see with the print.  

I lowered the neckline, which gives room to breathe, and shortened the sleeves by three inches.

Believe it or not, this is the original finished skirt length.  I didn't shorten it at all.  I'm 5'7", so perhaps it's drafted for someone a couple of inches shorter, but I expected it to be just a little longer.  I usually wear it with tights, though, so it's definitely not a deal breaker!

In this photo, I'm wearing a jacket I made out of a heavily modified OOP Vogue 8799.

Ruffled Maxi-dress - Simplicity 1873

Hello all!

Gosh, it's been a long time since I've posted.  I've made a whole new wardrobe since then!  Moved, transferred to a new university, got married a cat, and generally begun a new phase in my life.

First of all, the most important bit:

Little Mills (full name Millicent Sabrina Frampton) is just pushing four months.  She's an evil little shit but sometimes she dials it back and does some adorable ninja nonsense like you see above.  Evil, though.  The worst bitey monster I've ever willingly shared my bed with.

Here, have a few more:

 She used to be so tiny.

Getting a bit bigger

Millie came to live with me when she was just about 3 weeks old, because she and her siblings were abandoned in a friend's yard, no mama in sight.  I picked her up and she bit me, which for some reason I took as a good sign.  Since then she's become a traveling cat.

 Stuffed in a bag on the train.  She doesn't particularly like this.

She loves to ride in the car, though!  She climbs all over that handsome man.

So, that's Millie. Onward to the dress!

I used Simplicity 1873, a Cynthia Rowley pattern for dress and jacket.  I only used the bodice pieces, though, and rectangles for the skirt.  The skirt has four deep inverted pleats, two in front and two in the back.  It's simple, pretty, and breezy.

See? Breezy!

I made a 2-inch FBA in the bodice, but could have used a little more coverage in the armscyes.  They show a little bra, but it's not something I mind too much.  

The fabric is a very lightweight polyester double georgette with a geometric design reminiscent of bows.  I'm not rabidly anti-synthetics, and this is a nice one.  It's got a dry, not too slick feel that I appreciate.

 This is a slightly older picture, hence the different haircut.  In this photo, you can see the ruffle a bit better.  It was a very simple job!  I just traced around an LP, then traced around a bowl inside that circle to get a ring.  I then sandwiched the ruffle between fashion fabric and lining and here we are.  An effective way to trim a dress, embarrassingly easily!  The ruffle is baby-hemmed which was definitely the most difficult part of the process.
Does anyone else have the worst luck trying to press down baby hems?  I should get one of those silicone gloves you're supposed to use with curling irons...

Here's a shot of the inside:

The dress is lined in a sheer silk crepe de chine.  I just zig-zagged around the waist seam.  The skirt seams are done all French-like.

I love this dress.  It's something easy to wear, comfortable, and I don't have to worry about flashing someone if I have to struggle out of a seated position on the ground!  All around, it's a winner!

New Look 6183 and an Ignominious Sewing First

It all began when I downloaded the Burdavisor program which allows you to view the contents of Burda Style back issues including line drawings and magazine/mannequin photos.  It's pretty neat, and I have a tendency to get sucked in on rainy afternoons!  One day while browsing, I came across the plus section from May 2010 which gave us a glimpse into the life of a very glamorous and feminine Italian (I think) woman.  Well, glamorous as a housefrau who cleans and cooks and pleases her man in silky dresses can possibly be.

Liberated woman or not, her dresses are beautiful, and this one in particular struck me:

I couldn't find a copy anywhere, however, so I looked around for a similar dress and found New Look 6183.

Very similar, especially if that ruching at the front were gotten rid of.  Which is exactly what I did!

I think it came out really well!  I love the seaming on the skirt, which moves nicely as I walk.  I'm pleased with the way it fits as well, but I don't usually have many fitting challenges to begin with, so I just did the usual FBA and taking in at the waist.

The zipper looks like it sticks out at the back neckline, but it just wasn't zipped all the way up!

I did make some slight modifications to the pattern, but nothing major.  I lengthened the bodice pieces about two inches and moved the gathers a little closer to the center, where most of my fullness is located.  I also cut a 14 in the bodice, graded into a 10 at the waist, then out to a 16 at the hips.  It worked pretty well, I think.

The sleeves I cut without modification, but after hemming them, I gathered the lower 6 inches tightly and sewed little green buttons on top!  I added a self-bow out of a small tube of fabric at the center of the V-neck, but it gets a little lost in the print in these photos.  I think in the one below, it's a little clearer.  Also clear is the pretty great fit!

The fabric, once again, is from DenverFabrics.  It may be found right here.  It's a lightweight polyester crepe, but I really lucked out because it's not static-y or sweaty feeling like a lot of polyesters.  It has a really nice, almost dry feel to it, and a subtle sheen.  

And of course, my sewing first:  I accidentally melted a little of this fabric!  It was the very bottom of the center front seam, and just the edge.  I forgot to turn my iron down from my last project (which I haven't shared yet), and felt so dumb!  Luckily, it was all hidden away in the seam allowance!

Burda Style 01/2015 #126 -- Vintage Dress

I love BurdaStyle magazine.  I love the tracing, I love the anticipation of waiting for it to arrive, I love the roller-coaster of emotions as I try to follow the instructions.  I love the styles (August 2014--ON TOP of the culotte phenomenon), the photo spreads, and the silly, most likely trip-induced crafty projects often featured.

Oh, and I love this dress.  It's simple enough to have a vintage vibe without being a costume, and I've styled it two different ways and took photos in front of my shower curtain.

I did change the pattern a little bit.  I decided to forgo the inset waistband, and instead lengthened the bodice by two inches.  I also left it unlined, because I like the cheeky look of a short slip underneath a sheer dress.  The dark poly chiffon is just sheer enough to show the slip without leaving me feeling completely exposed.

This first look is more innocent and schoolgirl-ish, with saddle shoes and a ponytail.

Here's the second look:

Am I pulling it off?  That look of decadent Italian voluptuousness?

 Here's a detail of the bodice:

The neckline was finished with a machined baby hem, while the sleeves were hand-rolled.

I cut out a size 44, my usual size in Burda, but instead of removing all the extra fabric from the waist as I usually do, I decided to leave it a bit loose so it could just be a pullover dress.  I had visions of borderline grungey '90s floral dresses--kinda loose with little ties at the back to hold some of the volume in check.  Once I tried it on, though, I realized that that's not really the look for me.  I like to be cinched in tight.  Like, hindering blood flow kind of tight.  It's what gives me such good posture.  So, after making the dress extra loose in the waist and forgoing a zipper, I decided to make a matching belt.

This little puppy is made of black wool twill with four layers of cotton flannel sandwiched inside to give it body and strength.  Then quilted to the edge of the earth.  Have you ever tried to stitch parallel lines in black, on black, in the dim Tungsten glow of a non-efficient antique lamp?  Trying is a charitable way to describe it.  I'm surprisingly happy with the way it all turned out, though.  I like the look of the D-rings and the way I was able to contour the belt.  I had intended for the contour to be a little more pronounced, but the quilting may have stretched the smaller edge a bit.  Not sure.  Still fits.

The center back has an overlap of the diagonal lines of stitching.

And apparently a lot of cat hair.  

Now that I know how easy it is to make belts like this, I think i'm going to make some embellished ones for the summer--pastels with organza flowers and rhinestones.  Just cutesy enough to make a cynical hipster grimace, but not quite vomit.